Schiaparelli Fall Couture 2015

Just as I think Bouchra Jarrar for concise, minimalistic couture, I think Schiaparelli for embellished and intricate couture. Both collections are widely different visually, but they share a not-so-common common factor: an appreciation of design, technique, and style. There's been a lot of talk recently about the "dreaminess" of couture, but that "dreaminess" is normally in regards to some whimsical and ethereal collection, not a type like Schiaparelli. Schiaparelli was a true dream; not some romantic, starry-eyed dream, but instead one firmly based in reality. The old-fashioned, symmetrical embroidery was present, as well as colorful furs that wouldn't look out of place at a Prada show.*

This collection danced on the line between being too everyday for couture and too couture for everyday. The general styling of this collection wasn't too different from that found in the most tasteful of street style photographs, but what sets this apart from a scroll on The Sartorialist is the details of high quality. These looks have the creative style of streetwear, but the quality is most definitely couture. All the finest fabrics, furs, and features made up this collection, with the most perfect array of colors and textures.

The collection may have been wonderfully diverse when it came to fabric choices, but that was were it ended; the models were all white, aside from one Asian. Schiaparelli is obviously an old, traditional, Italian brand, but I don't think racial uniformity is acceptable in fashion shows, or anywhere for that matter. It may have slipped past the casting director's mind, but he or she should be aware of such things and make an effort to be racially inclusive, especially because of the criticism fashion has been getting recently. Apart from that unfortunate detail, Schiaparelli fall couture 2015 was like much of couture in that it should be credited more art than clothes. Exquisite embroidery, heavenly fabrics and furs, artful design motifs, and superb styling made this collection museum-worthy. 

*For more on Prada & Schiaparelli similarities, I suggest you read Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations, by the Metropolitan Museum of Art.























Photos via Vogue and Style.com.

2 comments:

  1. Great post! "This collection danced on the line between being too everyday for couture and too couture for everyday." sums this show up perfectly. I loved the first dress in your post and also the black/white bandeau dress. This show definitely had a lot more 'I would wear that!' moments than normal for a haute couture collection, but it was actually a refreshing change to have a more solid, realistic display xx

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