Gucci, Gucci, Gucci

Every Gucci show and presentation since Alessandro Michele's appointment has elicited a strong, encouraging response from the industry. His quirky, '70s-chic aesthetic has been hailed for restoring the house's intrigue from the dry, overdone hands of Frida Giannini. While I am most certainly grateful for his aid to mainstream appreciation of the sexy nerd, our (one-sided, completely clothing and talent based) relationship remains love-hate. Along with seemingly the rest of the fashion industry, I was pulled in by his bohemian menswear show last January, his first collection as Gucci creative director. The risk that Gucci took in his anonymity was reassured by the surety and strength of his aesthetic. But, rather than lead the brand into unexplored territory, Alessandro Michele is bringing Gucci back to the house's roots, which is a necessary step after the reign of Frida Giannini, but also not one to be overdone. Alessandro Michele is treading the line between simply revisiting the archives and reinventing them. When I look at Michele's collections for Gucci, I see designs that are relatively new for Gucci and fashion today, but, after a bit of research, are actually just curations from the 70s. Fashion relies so much on nostalgia, which can be satisfying because of its element of comfort, but nostalgia will never move fashion forward. Michele continues to stick by his already well-established aesthetic, but I hope the work he's shown thus far is only a primer for what's to come. I have faith in Michele's dedication, but his actual design I feel I've yet to see. He is, undoubtedly, a brave and talented curator, which are the same labels I've award Saint Laurent's Hedi Slimane (which is, in my opinion, not a compliment.) Just because Alessandro Michele's take on Gucci is different, does not make his design new.










2 comments:

  1. I really love these clothes, but knowing they are intimate recreations 'celebrating' Gucci's past somewhat muddies the waters. The lay observer probably won't investigate the archives though, and admittedly, it is world's apart from anything anyone is doing at the moment. Not because it's innovative, but simply because it's old and charming

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    1. Very, very true and I completely agree, however, "old and charming" never moved fashion forward so I just wish everyone would stop hailing the clothes for "saving Gucci/fashion/style/etc." I guess I tired early of the buzz.

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